Days 14 and 15
From here I was on my way home on a long run over two days. I'd run through the Badlands, and then grind my way back to Wisconsin.
I had a bit under 700 miles to get home by secondary roads. Pretty easy in two days, except for the heat. The "heat dome" was still setup over the central US and daytime temps were well into the upper 90s. I was going to just plow along the straight secondary roads south of Rt 90 listing to podcasts and get it done. I had planned to do a side trip through the Indian Reservation to the south, around Wounded Knee, because my daughter and wife and involved in some charity work down there. But given the heat I trimmed that off my trip. Gives me something new to see another day.
I did have the Bandlands to visit on the way though. So, an early start, a ride up to Rapid City and then east on 44. I was counting on finding a McDonalds up there for coffee and a breakfast bagel, but never did see one. That was odd. I settled for some breakfast bars and bad coffee at a nasty gas station on the east side of town, about the time I realized if I didn't eat now I wouldn't. Gas stations were about to become scarce.
There are two entrances to the Bandlands from the south side. By Scenic where there is a dirt road up to the west edge of the park, Sage Creek Rd. And then the main gate down in Interior. I figured those would be touristy types of towns, and I'd get gas if not breakfast there.
But Scenic used to be a touristy town from the looks of it. There were gas pumps, but that building was locked up. As I hung around in the shade of that building all sorts of people stopped, got a confused look, and tried the door I had already told them was locked. No gas for any of us.
And there were a series of boarded up bars and a boarded up motel. This must have been quite the biker destination at one time. There was an old jail in decent condition, bed frames in some of the cells. And a couple jail cells right next to one of the bars. A place to toss drunks until they sobered up on a raucous night?
A couple guys on Harleys rode up. City guys from Chicago, a retired guy and his adult son I think. A little too loud. A little too much character, like they were acting in a play instead of just wandering around Scenic. But good guys and we explored together. The older guy really thought my traveling alone was a bad idea, and lectured me a bit about safety and being smart about things. When I mentioned Sage Creek Road he got a little exasperated and asked me how much gas I thought was up there. What would happen if I broke down? Think, son, think. In his defense, this was the first time in a long time he'd been half a mile from a gas station, they were on every other corner where he lived. This wide-open America was really a new thing for him, and almost disorienting for him I think.
So ... we hung out and I took a lot of pictures of them with their camera. The younger guy struck gangster poses for most of them. When the time came I took off, and yes, of course I ran up Sage Creek Rd. If you've been paying attention at all you know that about me by now.
There were plenty of farm houses along the back road up to the Badlands, Chicago guy worried needlessly. The gravel was loose enough in places that I didn't love it. I'd be clipping along and then suddenly it would get loose and start grabbing at the wheels. I'm not good at that. I lack confidence in those situations, and bad things happen on a bike when you're not confident. But I made it.
I stopped at a park sign to take a picture and stretch my legs. I enjoyed annoying the ground squirrels and listening them barking warnings and orders at each other. It was warm, but not oppressive yet.
Then one of the coolest moments of the trip happened. I turned around to go back to my bike, and this lone Buffalo had come up on me while I wasn't looking. He had silently come over the crest of the hill, and was just standing there staring at me.
A lone buffalo is an interesting sight. They are so big, but since you're on the plains there is not much to compare them too. So your sense of perspective gets off a bit. They move silently. And they move slowly and you don't really notice their legs move much. It really does feel a bit like a ship moving across the ocean.
So this lone buffalo walks right at me, rubs his head on a post by the sign a bit, keeps walking towards me, turns left to avoid the bike, and carries along with his life. Pretty fun.
From there I rode through the Badlands. I really didn't stop a lot. It is beautiful, but I had seen a lot of geology in the last couple weeks, and a ton of beauty. I also had a long hot ride in front of me, it was time to get to it.
Down in Interior there wasn't much more of a town than Scenic. There was a gas station though, which I needed. It was a bit run down with awful coffee. Couldn't find a diner anywhere so more power bars for me. I think all the happenings are up on Rt 90 and Wall Drug up there has sucked the life from Scenic and Interior.
From here the story winds down. Earbuds in I listened to a book-on-tape. I kept my jacket on. It keeps the heat out, so they say. I was beginning to wonder about that wisdom. I made it to the Missouri River. I had expected a bit of tourist stuff there, but other than a nice looking campground it was just where a road crosses a river. No way I was camping in this heat. I rested in the shade. Even in the shade it was too hot.
I made it to Parkston, just another town but this one had enough size to have more than one gas station. I was getting worried by the lack of motels on the road. I talked to one guy that was a bit too friendly, creepy really. My spider sense was tingling, and to this day I wonder what he has in his basement. But he told me the nearest motel was 50 miles up the road. I wasn't sure I had that much riding left in me. But, as folks so often are, he was wrong. I explored town a bit and found a motel on the north side. It was just fine. After a shower I found a grocery store and got a pile of food and a 6-pack for the room. Half the beers I left by the ice machine with a "Free" sign. Too much for me and there was no need for them to go to waste.
Next morning it was sweltering outside and my sunglasses immediately fogged when I stepped outside. There were two Harleys parked next to my bike. They were getting ready while I loaded up. I gave them a "hi" but was ignored, and the guys kept their backs to me. One of the ladies I had run into earlier while looking for coffee and we had chatted briefly. I thought maybe she looked apologetic? Not sure if the guys were having a bad morning or didn't approve of my brand motorcycle or what. I chose to believe they were embarrassed for their wives to see them in contrast to a real motorcyclist, and they were intimidated my sheer manliness. Either way, I left them to their ride and took off on mine.
Mid-morning I shed my jacket and rode in t-shirt. You know what? It was better. But I did have cloud cover and the air was pretty wet. On a drier, sunnier day I might have preferred the jacket.
I just ground my way home, going where my phone navigator software told me and listened to podcasts. Stopped for a desolated highway pictures, rested in the grassy shade next to churches and stuff like that. Got home late afternoon not feeling too beat up.
The End
So, that's the story of my trip. I think it was half Adventure and half Vacation. I figure an "adventure" is whatever you do that pushes your limits, and when you put yourself in situations where you know in advance you will have an "experience" but may not necessarily have fun in every moment. But doing is will be rewarding in the long run. If you know what I mean. For some folks an "adventure" is an overnight ride. For some it's a trip around the globe. Doesn't matter, "adventure" is a frame of mind regardless of the scope or your trip. I did some of that.
And "vacation" is just going out and being nice to yourself and seeking maximum fun and comfort. I did some of that too.
I figure I had struck a pretty good balance. But it was also a pretty long trip for two weeks. It worked out fine, but I hadn't really left myself much leeway for human or mechanical breakdowns. I had worn myself out at certain points, mostly because I was both over-scheduled and took side-trips, which left me running hard and late into the day. I think in the future I will plan even shorter days and even more down time. I think I am beginning to really enjoy the "vacation" aspect of the thing and feeling a bit less of a need for the "adventure". But we all need both, in a ying-and-yang sort of way.